转关于苏纪石的国外资料 PS: 原来舒俱来还有个名字-----杉石

初中二年级 发布于 2013-08-27 23:44:24 回帖: 75 | 评论: 0 | 查看: -

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楼主
1楼
初中二年级

查了几天资料,发现网上的材料实在有限,重复居多,所以借着对舒的新鲜劲,开始查外文资料,顺便与大家分享。
以下是自己龟速翻译的,附上原文,因不是专业搞研究的,难免讲外行话,请高手发现谬误后务必指教。

Sugilite


Sugilite occurs as a microcrystalline aggregate and ranges in color from dark to medium purple, with variable amounts of dark or light mottling when chalcedony is present. Although a small percentage of the rough is translucent, most pieces seen on the market are opaque. The pure purple specimens which are nearly 100% Sugilite are 5 1/2 - 6 in hardness, while the pieces containing chalcedony may be 6 1/2 or higher and often have a more reddish purple color and/or distinctive patterning.
苏纪石是一种微晶聚合体,颜色变化范围由深紫到中紫,因伴生石英的存在而形成深浅不一的斑点。尽管有极少量的原石是透明或半透明体,大部分市面流通可见的通常是不透明体。舒含量接近100%的纯紫色标本硬度通常为5.5-6,而含伴生石英的标本硬度则可达到6.5或6.5以上,并且颜色更接近紫红且有独特的纹路。

楼主
2楼
初中二年级

This beautiful purple gem was discovered during mining operations for manganese in the 1970's, but it didn't begin to make a market impact until the 1980's. It is expensive as opaque stones go, even though the known deposit is quite large, this is primarily because the one and only source is remote (in the Kalahari Desert near Botswana), and it must be mined 3200 feet underground. I have no doubt that it would be buried still, if it were not a profitable sideline of on-going industrial manganese mining.In the early 80's, attempts were made to market Sugilite under various tradenames such as "Royal Azel", "Wesselite" and "Lavulite", but none of these caught on. The translucent, dark purple (grape jelly) pieces are referred to as "gel Sugilite" and are very expensive due to their rarity. It's estimated that less than .05% of the gems mined from the deposit are in this gel form. The gem has recently received a boost in popularity, though, as have many unfamiliar opaque gems, via the home shopping channels and internet auctions sites which feature them in sterling silver jewelry.There are no known enhancements of this gem and it has not been synthesized. However, a plastic "Sugilite" simulant is sometimes used in inexpensive jewelry pieces. Plastic will melt and give off an acrid smoke when touched with the tip of a red hot needle, Sugilite will not react.
这种美丽的紫色宝石是在上世纪70年代在开采锰矿的时候意外发现,但在80年代之前都没有得到市场开发。尽管探明储量极大,但这种不透明的矿石却价格极高,这主要是因为唯一的矿源所处位置偏僻(在靠近非洲博茨瓦纳的喀拉哈里沙漠),且开采必须要深至地下3200英尺(约975米)。在80年代早期,曾被尝试过按品种进行市场推广,例如“皇家紫”、 “
wesselite”、 “薰衣紫”,但是都没能够引起关注。半透明的深紫色种(葡萄冻体)被视为宝石级的苏纪石,由于存在极为稀少而价格奇贵。据估算,可被称为宝石级的苏纪石仅占开采总量的不足0.5%。但是,最近苏纪石开始变得流行起来,大量不透明的品种通常被加工成纯银镶嵌的珠宝,并通过家庭购物和网络拍卖进行销售。这一类型的目前并没有经过优化或合成。不过有时一种与苏纪石相似的塑料会替代真品被应用于廉价珠宝的制造,其鉴别方法是用烧红的针尖去接触检测,如果是塑料则会融化并产生一种刺鼻的味道,而真正的苏纪石则不会出现这种情况。

楼主
3楼
初中二年级

Care

Athough reasonable care should be taken in setting and wearing this gem, it is relatively durable compared to some other popular cabochon gems. Sugilite is, for example, less susceptible to chemical attack than turquoise, and less sensitive to heat and drying than opal. It will need a repolishing from time to time if worn daily in a ring, and it should be protected from sharp knocks, but otherwise it is highly suitable for most jewelry uses.

保养
这种宝石在镶嵌和佩戴时应注意进行一定的保养,不过相对一些其它流行的大众宝石还是更为耐用的。譬如,苏纪石相对绿松石来说更为耐化学品腐蚀,相对欧泊则更为耐热或耐干。如果是每天经常佩戴的戒指,可时不时地擦拭保养,同时需避免用力触碰硬物。对于大多数人来说该品种确实是相当耐用的一种珠宝。

Value
The major value points are the depth and purity of the purple color and the degree of translucence. Within the opaque type, those which are the richest and purest purple color (without appearing black) and least mottled are the most valuable. It is the translucent "gel" form that commands the highest prices -- the very best pieces of which are generally set in gold and surrounded by diamonds . When pieces are mottled, particularly attractive patterns can rise above the norm in value, as is the case, for example, with the spotted "leopardskin" Sugilite.
价值
影响价格的关键点在于紫色部分的深度和纯度以及整体的透明度。对于不透明的品种,紫色越多越纯正(不带黑色的)且杂斑越少的则越贵。宝石级的半透明体是最好的品种,价格也是最贵的,一般都是采用金镶钻的形式加工。带有斑点的,特别是表面图案较美的则价格要高于普通品种,比如” 豹皮苏纪石 “。

4楼
博士后

例图上的几个都很美貌呢

5楼
辅导员 大王

学习学习

6楼
初中二年级

舒俱来?

7楼
初中二年级

怎么觉得这个是针对现在新出的那种苏俱来矿料说的呢?比如说的那个豹皮苏纪石。现在淘宝上很多卖这样子的苏俱来了。

8楼
小学二年级

LZ辛苦了~谢谢~

9楼
高中一年级

lz辛苦!学习了!

楼主
10楼
初中二年级

另一款资料,在一个普及基础宝石知识的网站上看到的,摘了相对新鲜点的内容:






The colors, shapes and sizes that Sugilite comes in
Sugilite is a fairly recent addition to the jewelers showcase. It was originally discovered in 1944 by Japanese geologist Ken-ichi Sugi off the island of Iwagi in Shikoku, Japan. However, this minerals beautiful hues and attractive attributes are making it extremely popular in the jewelry marketplace. Sugilite is made from many different types of elements including Potassium, Sodium, Maganese, Lithium, Iron, Aluminum and Silicate, its crystal structure is very poor, but since it is found in large masses, it is usually sold in larger pieces that compliment other types of gemstones.The hues that Sugilite comes in are varied. For instance, it’s most notable hue and most valuable hue is that of a very deep and rich purple. The stone is usually translucent to opaque, however when it comes in purple and of very large mass, it is usually opaque with a waxy luster. Other colors that Sugilite comes in are yellow, brown, black, a pale pink and yellow.It should be noted that Sugilite is the perfect gemstone to use to accent other stones, specifically Turquoise, Malachite and Coral. It can be cut into many shapes and sizes, but it usually looks its best in larger sizes do to its crystal formation.This mineral does make great jewelry, because it has a decent hardness of 6 to 6.5 on the Moh’s scale and is generally stable in its color. It is not brittle and will be perfect for day to day use. Because of its wonderful attributes, many jewelry insiders predict that Sugilite will grow in popularity in the next coming years.
关于苏纪石(舒俱来)的颜色、形状和大小
苏纪石被用做珠宝配饰也只是近年来的事。1944年由日本地质学家在日本四国地区的岩城岛发现。但是这种矿物丰富的色彩及迷人的特性使其在珠宝市场上极其走俏。
苏纪石由包含钾、钠、锰、锂、铁、铝、硅酸盐在内的多种元素组成,其水晶结构并不好,但由于大块体积的较多,因此常以大块宝石形态出售以用于搭配其它宝石。
苏纪石所带的色彩也种类较多。譬如,最出名也最昂贵的颜色就是浓郁的深紫色。这种石头通常是半透明到不透明的,当紫色较多时,一般是不透明且有蜡质感光泽。其他的颜色还有黄色、棕色、黑色和淡粉。
需要注意的是,苏纪石是一种珠宝配饰宝石,与其它宝石极其好搭,特别是与绿松石、孔雀石和珊瑚。可以被任意切割成各种形状和大小,但由于其水晶体构成通常以大块为美。
非常适于珠宝加工,因为摩氏硬度通常为6-6.5,并且颜色相对稳定。因不易碎故适用于日常佩戴。由于其良好的特性,不少珠宝业内人士预测其在今后会变得更为流行。

11楼
大学四年级 故人 ,

舒。学习

楼主
12楼
初中二年级

发些图片,审美风格不同与国内,自己酱油的可借鉴下。

楼主
13楼
初中二年级

另一个资料上的,大多内容重复,只译标注的比较特别的几句。

红色字体:在日本、加拿大、南非和印度均有发现。

蓝色字体:带有纹路或斑点的亮紫色是市面上流通的高货。宝石等级的苏纪石漂亮、半透、稀少并且昂贵。南非产的苏纪石质量较高,不透明且带有黑色斑点或脉络,黑色由于矿脉含锂和锰所造成。

楼主
14楼
初中二年级

Sugilite

David Federman

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What’s in a name, you ask? Quite a lot when it comes to gems. Try getting excited about the likes of zoisite or grossular garnet. But rechristen these two gems as “tanzanite” and “tsavorite” respectively and you’ve done for gem marketing the equivalent of changing the name “Frances Gumm” to “Judy Garland.” “Tanzanite” and “tsavorite” are the trade names Tiffany’s taught the world to use back in 1968 and 1970 when it debuted these two East African gems to wild acclaim.
So it was hardly surprising that when sugilite, a new gem from South Africa, made its American market entry in 1984, it had as many trade names as a generic drug.
Aware the name “sugilite” doesn’t conjure up any of the gem’s attributes—such as its majestic deep-purple color and its remote single origin in the southern Africa’s Kalahari desert—marketers dubbed it variously “wesselite,” “royal azel,” “royal lavulite” and “cybeline.”It never caught on under any of these aliases.Nor has it yet to catch on under its real name.Sugilite’s trouble, one a catchy name can’t fix, is that it is more mineral than gem, suitable for cabochon cutting rather than faceting. With the exception of turquoise, lapis lazuli and black onyx, few opaque and semi-translucent gem minerals attract the attention of consumers.May we suggest a second look? Sugilite has three big pluses going for it: beauty, affordability and a helluva story line. We will start with the last.Marketing ManganeseSugilite is named after Professor Ken-ichi Sugi, the Japanese petrologist (a specialist in rock formation and composition) who first discovered it in southwestern Japan in 1944. Although later noted in India, the first sugilite suitable for jewelry use wasn’t recovered until 1979 from a South African manganese mine in the Kalahari desert near Botswana. Later one ambitious marketer of the new gem would dub sugilite “royal azel” after the mine’s nearest town, Hotazel (jokingly pronounced “hot as hell” by locals since daytime summer temperatures there reach 100 F).The area in which sugilite is found is known as the Kuruman manganese field. Although this region is dotted with manganese mines, only one, the Wessels mine, produces gem sugilite. To honor its sole source, some early sellers called the newcomer “wesselite.”

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Sugilite was discovered in the Wessels mine around 1975 but ignored until 1979 because it occurred in low-grade ore thought unworthy of attention. Some time after miners began working this ore, probably in 1980, they hit a mass of sugilite weighing between 10 and 12 tons. By sheer size alone, the deposit forced consideration of sugilite as a gem material. Miners removed this mass from its host rock and stockpiled it while the mine’s owners put out feelers among gem dealers.Those who experimented with the new material found that while occasional sections of rough lent themselves to faceting, sugilite was for the most part opaque and therefore best suited to cabochon cutting. Better cabs generally ranged in deep purple color from lavender to magenta and usually featured some banding.As meaningful supplies of sugilite started to come on the market, definite color preferences emerged. The most desirable: rare reddish-purple hues. But even when a far more common bluish-purple, the color generally merited the adjective “royal” used to describe very fine amethyst color. That’s why, in the mid-‘80s, dealers began marketing sugilite as “royal lavulite,” a name meant to evoke its rich lavender color. Unfortunately, for many lavulite sounds more like lava than lavender.Sugilite and IceWithout a doubt, the most imaginative and extensive marketing of sugilite as a jewelry gem was undertaken in 1984-1985 by I. Kurgan, a South African diamond firm that had opened an office in Los Angeles. Sensing that sugilite stood its best chance of mainstreaming acceptance as a jewelry center stone surrounded by diamonds, the firm created a striking line of sugilite and diamond rings, pendants and earrings with retail prices beginning at $300, then promoted it as “Royal Azel” jewelry.While I. Kurgan maintains that its sugilite popularization campaign succeeded, it is no longer actively marketing the gem. But I. Kurgan deserves a lot of the credit for sugilite’s winning its first real following in the United States.In fact it became popular enough to spawn imitations: plastic purple copies of the best material. Why, pray tell, would anyone substitute plastic for a gem that is often available for just dollars per carat in cabochon form? The fact that the simulant costs just pennies per carat is a large part of the answer. But the growing scarcity of fine-color material plays a role too.Much of this lesser color material, it turns out, is a second type of gem sugilite found in the Wessels mine, a fact the Gemological Institute of America discovered and reported in what is still the definitive study of this gem, published in the summer 1987 issue of Gems and Gemology. According to GIA, some sugilite pieces are predominantly sugilite while others are strong mixtures of sugilite with chalcedony quartz. It is the purer material (GIA calls it “maganoan sugilite”) that exhibits deeper, more uniform color and the quartz sugilite that exhibits lighter, more mottled color. Cutters have apparently used most of the pure material and are left with less pure grades.
As consolation, quartz sugilite has a better hardness than the maganoan variety—6-6 ½ versus 5 ½-6. But no matter which type is used, or which alias it is sold under, sugilite offers affordable rich color, that adds the possibility of rich purple to a designer’s palette for inlay work or cabochons.

很特别的一篇评论,先存上慢慢翻。
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15楼
托儿所

哇塞!LZ太用心啦~

楼主
16楼
初中二年级

苏纪石David Federman当新宝石被定义时,你会想取个什么名字才好呢?想象下听到黝帘石和钙铝榴石你会激动吗?后来这二者又分别被更名为坦桑石和沙弗莱石,如果你研究过宝石营销学的话就会明白这其中的区别就相当于弗朗西斯·古姆后来改名为朱迪·嘉兰的不同效果(朱迪.嘉兰是著名美国女演员及歌唱家,因电影绿野仙踪而一举成名)。坦桑石和沙弗莱石是蒂凡尼公司所给起的名字,1968年和1970该公司将这两种东非宝石首次推向世界并赢得广泛赞誉。

所以1984年当苏纪石这种产自南非的新型宝石首次登陆美国时,市场所给起的别名也五花八门不亚于药品名称之种类繁多。

考虑到苏纪石这个名字并不能令人联想到这种宝石的特性——诸如神秘的深紫色和其在遥远南非喀拉哈里沙漠的唯一产区——开发商们于是又取了“wesselite”、“皇家紫”、“皇家熏衣紫”和“cybeline”这些别名(反正就一品种的别名,这个实在是搞不清叫什么,也许原作者打错字了,反正能google到的意思都完全对不上)。不过这些别名也没能使苏纪石火起来。更不用说苏纪石这个本名也没能火起来。
苏纪石的问题并不是一个动听的名字就能解决的,因为它的矿物属性要多于宝石属性,更适于磨圆而不适合切面。除绿松石、青金石和黑玛瑙这几种以外,很少能有不透明或半透明的宝石矿可引起消费者的青睐。
也许是第二眼美女?对此苏纪石要有3个加分点:漂亮、价格适合以及一条宏大的故事线。我们从最后一点谈起。
锰的市场化
苏纪石得名于1944年首次在日本西南部发现此物的日本岩石学家杉健一。尽管之后在印度也曾有发现,但适用于珠宝加工的苏纪石直到1979年才在位于南非接近博茨瓦纳的喀拉哈里沙漠的一个锰矿区被人发现。这种苏纪石随后被一个雄心勃勃的新宝石开发商称为皇家紫(royal azel),这个名字其实是来源于离矿区最近的一个叫Hotazel的镇子(开玩笑的话Hotazel可被拼作hot as hell,中文解释就是“热得和地狱一样”,因为当地白日气温夏天可高至100华氏度(即37.77℃,不得不吐槽老外真是太不耐热了,要今年来中国得热哭)。
这种苏纪石的发现地是在库鲁曼锰矿区,这一区域分布着不少锰矿,但只有唯一的Wessels矿区有这种宝石级苏纪石。为纪念这唯一产地,早期也有人将这种新宝石称为“wesselite”。

楼主
17楼
初中二年级

苏纪石是1975年前后在Wessels矿区发现的,不过在1979年以前都一直被世人忽视,主要是因为这一周期开采的都是低档次的矿脉,所以没有引起人们重视。大约1980年前后,开始有矿工在这一矿区开采,无意发现了一块约有10至20吨的巨大苏纪石。单就大小而言,如此高的富集度足以产生足够的压力促成宝石级的苏纪石形成。矿工们将这块巨石从矿床上开采下来然后储存起来,与此同时矿主忙着与宝石交易商们小心翼翼地试探着价格(好羡慕这种心情和被巨宝砸中的奇遇啊)。

通过实验人们发现苏纪石这种新材料,除了少数原石可以切面切割,大多数原石都是部分不透明因而更为适合凸圆形切割。最好的品种一般都是深紫色的,颜色范围从薰衣草色到洋紫色,通常都伴有石纹这一特征出现。
伴随优质苏纪石在市面上的出现,对苏纪石颜色的定义需求也应运而出。最受欢迎的是:少见的紫红色。但即便是相对普遍的蓝紫色也可被冠以“皇家”,从而显示其所具有的优质水晶紫色彩。这也就是为什么在80年代中期,交易商们开始用“皇家熏衣紫”这一名字来营销苏纪石,因为这一名字足以让人联想到宝石美丽的薰衣草色彩。但可惜的是,对很多人来说这一名字的读音更容易让人想到的是火山岩浆而不是薰衣草。
苏纪石和冰
毫无争议的是1984年到1985年,一家叫I. Kugan的南非钻石集团在洛杉矶设立了一个办事处,开始把苏纪石作为珠宝宝石在市面上进行的最有想象力且最为广泛的营销推广。因为注意到大块苏纪石环镶细石这一设计最为符合大众审美,该企业推出了一系列抢眼的苏纪石镶钻戒指、吊坠、和耳环,零售价为300美元起,宣传名称为“皇家紫”珠宝。
当I. Kugan集团意识到它的苏纪石推广策略已取得成功后,就不再热衷进行积极的市场营销。但I. Kugan集团确实是推动美国第一次苏纪石热的背后功臣。

实际上苏纪石热到了出现了山寨品:用紫色塑料山寨的高级苏纪石珠宝同款。也许有人奇怪,为什么有人会不选才几美元一克拉的正品而非要去买假货呢?答案估计主要是因为山寨货的价格才几美分一克拉。不过极品宝石数量的稀缺也是一个原因。
Wessels矿区还出产一种比极品苏纪石颜色要略淡的品种,是由美国宝石学院(简称GIA)在苏纪石的研究过程中发现的,并于1987年夏在《宝石和宝石学》发表。GIA认为一些标本大部分是由苏纪石组成,而剩下一部分是苏纪石和玉髓石英的混合物。这种标本中较纯的部分(GIA称之为舒俱,英文是maganoan sugilite)颜色相对较深且比较相似,而含石英的部分会颜色较浅并且有斑驳的色点。切割技师一般都是选用了较纯净的部分而丢弃了不纯净的这部分。

不过令人欣慰的是,含有石英的苏纪石一般硬度要高于舒俱石,二者硬度范围分别为6-6.5和5.5-6.不过不管是哪一种苏纪石被开发,或者是哪一种推广名被接受,苏纪石都是一种大众能消费得起的并有着丰富颜色的宝石,给珠宝设计师提供了无数种紫色的选择。

18楼
初中三年级 爱着每块美丽的石头

哇。学习了 ,好贴必须顶

19楼
小学二年级

真是好贴,我对舒很喜欢,谢谢你,辛苦了。。。

20楼
违规用户 新手,多多指教!

楼主这么认真地为我们翻译,我也认真地看完了,谢谢啊,哈!

21楼
初中二年级

很有意思,楼主的精神着实佩服。

22楼
小学二年级

谢谢楼主,好贴顶起

23楼
初中一年级

好贴顶起

24楼
婴儿

这样帖子太好了,又能学到知识,又能看到美物。谢谢楼主,多多写这样的文章。

25楼
初中二年级

好帖,学习了

26楼
托儿所

好贴,学习了。如果下次能把各种品质的小舒贴个图的话,就是大科普贴了~

27楼
小学二年级

好人,赞一个,这个是不是就是黑的多了,但我觉得很好看啊

转关于苏纪石的国外资料     PS: 原来舒俱来还有个名字-----杉石_舒俱来

楼主
28楼
初中二年级

我也是初学者,只是觉得这个蓝得有点诡异,还是要请其他高手指点。

29楼
小学一年级

看了这么久关于舒俱来的帖子,这贴最赞!

30楼
小学六年级

豹皮舒俱来就是我们常说的樱花吧